By Marilyn Carmin
That includes dozens of natural world styles for scroll observed woodworking, this booklet is going past different trend books by means of offering directions for changing styles so carvers can create a distinct piece of artwork at any time when. additionally integrated are beneficial directions at the fundamentals of scroll observed woodcutting, in addition to tougher suggestions like changing a conventional fretwork woodworking right into a three-D aid or fashioning a shadow field development. one of the ninety one interesting styles supplied are eagles, owls, cougars, bobcats, wolves, bears, and whales. how to construct a reveal for newly accomplished items also are integrated.
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Extra resources for Artistic Wildlife Projects for the Scroll Saw
Right up there with the select pine. So I picked through the cheaper boards to find the best. After carefully matching the boards for best edges (for glueup) and for grain match, I glued the panels for the top, the shelves and for the two sides. The shelves and two sides are sized to finish at 11"-wide, which is two 1×6s glued together. The top was two 1×8s that were then ripped to finish width. PUTTING IT TOGETHER Construction was pretty straightforward. After cutting the finished panels to length I used pocket screws to attach the three shelves between the two sides.
Chiseling the entire slot out sounded like too much work, so I looked around at my tools and decided my biscuit jointer would work nicely. 32 Z7617i_pg026-033 Gamble House Mi32 32 9/23/10 4:24:29 PM G A MBL E H OU SE M IRROR 13 After clamping the piece tightely, I set the fence of my biscuit jointer to make the first cut starting 1⁄4" down from the top. With the tool set to make a cut for a No. 20 biscuit, I centered the tool and plunged from first one side, and then the other. 14 15 16 To clean up the ends of the slots, I did need to use a mallet and chisel, but that was an easy task compared to clearing the whole slot by hand.
Because of this I’ve acquired a few smaller files and rasps. The one shown in photo 11 gets used a lot. The rounded face works great for corbels, and the flat side smooths out the transition from round-to-flat on the piece. The next step is to assemble the base frames. To do this, I used countersunk and plugged screws through the edges of the legs and into the ends of the stretchers. Because the legs are 11∕2" wide, I needed to use 21∕2" screws to make a solid joint. I adjusted the length of my countersink bit to make sure I would properly pre-drill the hole.