By Alex Weiss
This booklet describes the various various fabrics utilized by version engineers of their workshops comparable to iron or metal, non-ferrous metals together with aluminum, brass and copper, not easy and tender woods and a couple of engineering and different plastics. It additionally includes information about abrasives, adhesives, bearing fabrics, ceramics and refractory fabrics, coatings, electroplating options, fuels, gases, lubricants, pickles, sprucing fabrics, sealants and solders. It offers a simple reference for these looking the best fabric for the duty or an merchandise unique on a plan.
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Extra resources for Workshop Materials (Workshop Practice Series, Volume 30)
Sample text
Right up there with the select pine. So I picked through the cheaper boards to find the best. After carefully matching the boards for best edges (for glueup) and for grain match, I glued the panels for the top, the shelves and for the two sides. The shelves and two sides are sized to finish at 11"-wide, which is two 1×6s glued together. The top was two 1×8s that were then ripped to finish width. PUTTING IT TOGETHER Construction was pretty straightforward. After cutting the finished panels to length I used pocket screws to attach the three shelves between the two sides.
Chiseling the entire slot out sounded like too much work, so I looked around at my tools and decided my biscuit jointer would work nicely. 32 Z7617i_pg026-033 Gamble House Mi32 32 9/23/10 4:24:29 PM G A MBL E H OU SE M IRROR 13 After clamping the piece tightely, I set the fence of my biscuit jointer to make the first cut starting 1⁄4" down from the top. With the tool set to make a cut for a No. 20 biscuit, I centered the tool and plunged from first one side, and then the other. 14 15 16 To clean up the ends of the slots, I did need to use a mallet and chisel, but that was an easy task compared to clearing the whole slot by hand.
Because of this I’ve acquired a few smaller files and rasps. The one shown in photo 11 gets used a lot. The rounded face works great for corbels, and the flat side smooths out the transition from round-to-flat on the piece. The next step is to assemble the base frames. To do this, I used countersunk and plugged screws through the edges of the legs and into the ends of the stretchers. Because the legs are 11∕2" wide, I needed to use 21∕2" screws to make a solid joint. I adjusted the length of my countersink bit to make sure I would properly pre-drill the hole.