By Hugh Piggott
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Let it sit on the CSM. Take care not to move the magnets around. • Mix 500g of resin with 7cc of catalyst. Add 300g talcum powder. Fill the spaces between the magnets until the resin mix reaches the top of the mould. Leave the rotor castings to set hard (several hours) before you remove them from the moulds. Be patient when removing the rotors from the moulds. Do not use violent hammer blows which may damage them. Hit the mould, and not the rotor. Four stages of the rotor casting procedure PMG manual page 35 June 2001 6.
This is necessary because the rotor disk may not be perfectly central on the PMG shaft. PMG manual page 41 June 2001 Repeat the starting test (diagram 43) with each of the four rotor studs in the 3 o'clock position. Try different weights, and find the lightest weight which will start the rotor turning. If one stud needs much more weight than another, then the rotor is not balanced. Fix small weights to the rotor until the balance is correct. Electrical testing Coil connection test It would be helpful to have a multimeter when testing the PMG, but it is possible to do some basic tests with a 3 volt torch bulb.
It makes the resin mixture much cheaper, and a little thicker. Resin can be mixed with up to twice its own weight of talcum powder. The powder also helps to reduce the heat build-up in large resin castings. Mould preparation Polyurethane varnish Ordinary paint should not be used on moulds. Better to use nothing. If possible, use polyurethane varnish. This will prevent moisture coming out of a mould made from wood, plaster or clay. Smooth the varnish off with sandpaper before polishing it. Polish Polish the mould several times before using it first time.