By Norman D. Stevens
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41. Next, you’ll need to round off the corners of the board. With a quarter and a pencil, draw an arc on each of the corners. Each arc should be of the same length. You can determine this by measuring the distance from the corner of the board to the point where the arc intersects the side. 42. Use two bar clamps to secure the board to the work surface. These clamps are padded—if yours aren’t, place a small piece of scrap wood between the clamps and the sanded board’s surface to protect it. The board’s surface should not be directly touching the clamps.
The blade’s height should be set so that the blade is sticking up no more than ¼ inch of above the wood. As shown in Step 10, it’s a good idea to use a push stick when you’re ripping (cutting with the grain) long pieces of wood on a table saw. If the piece you’re cutting extends beyond the surface of the table saw, make certain that it is supported somehow; sawhorses or scrap furniture will work well. Whether or not you use a push stick, never put your hands closer to the blade than 4 inches when the machine is on.
Repeat at the two other marks. 4. The marked-up wood will look like this, ready for sawing. If you wish, you can use a jigsaw, or even a hand saw, to cut these 13-inch lengths. ) How to Use a Power Miter Saw Before working with the miter saw, be sure to review the sidebar on page 2 for general guidelines on using power tools safely. To use a power miter saw properly, first make certain that you’re using a sharp blade and that the blade is tightly fastened. Use the proper blade—if, for example, you’re cross-cutting wood (cutting across the grain) you should use what’s known as a combination blade.